KOMONDOR (plural is Komondorok)

ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT

Similar in size to other European livestock guard dogs the Komondor, King of the Hungarian livestock guarding dogs, is distinguished by its unusually heavy, white corded coat which resembles an old-fashioned string mop. Because of this coat, it is not easily mistaken for another breed.

The Komondor is an ancient livestock guarding breed used for centuries by the Magyar people of Hungary on the high plains (Puszta) of that country. While its homeland has been Hungary for so many centuries, it is generally thought to be a descendent of the long legged Owtcharka of the Russian Steppes brought to what is now Hungary by the invading Magyars. The word "komondor" can be found in Hungarian documents dating from the 16th century, though reference to large sheepdogs predate that.

The Komondor was first brought to the United States in the late 1930's. Although the Komondor was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1937 it was not until the late 1960's that the dogs began to flourish there. During World War II contact between the United States and Hungary was cut off and there was virtually no importing and no breeding done in the US. In Europe the breed was almost wiped out because of the war. Only a few dozen specimens were left afterward, and the breed was slowly re-established in Hungary, but was rare even there. During the entire period between World War II and 1960, only about 1000 Komondors had been registered in Hungary. Contact between the American Kennel Club and the Hungarian Kennel Club was re-established in 1962, and importation of Komondors resumed. The next two decades saw dogs imported from Hungary and elsewhere in Europe, and American breeders produced an average of 50 litters a year in the 1980's. Because of its rarity, the breed has not been exploited by amateur breeders. Show dogs still have the ability to work, and working dogs are regularly brought into the show ring.

It is important to be aware that a Komondor is first and foremost a stock guard dog. When evaluating whether this is the breed for you and your family, keep this in mind. If you are seriously considering acquiring a Komondor, you are strongly urged to see adult dogs in their home environment before making your final decision. This is not always possible. It is strongly suggested that, especially if you cannot see any and still want to try one, that you get only one dog, and see how he works out.

The dogs are not everyone's cup of tea. They require a firm but affectionate master and work best at maturity if they are considered fellow shepherds rather than servants. They are very devoted and hence very sensitive to your displeasure. Physical force is rarely needed and indeed is sometimes rather sharply resisted if the dogs thinks he Is being punished when he has no understanding of his "crime". Shaming often works better than beating. The dogs are very bossy with other dogs, and it is not recommended to put two unaltered males together.

Experienced breeders will tell you that breeding and raising these dogs is not easy. In Hungary they say that it requires money, money, and more money. It is also easier to have the patience that is required if you start with a dog you know to be your proven, invaluable guard and companion.

Contact the Corresponding Secretary of your National Club or the Komondor Club of America for the names of owners in your area (see bottom of page). The National Clubs can also provide you with a list of breeders who are members of the Club, and who have pledged to abide by the Code of Ethics of their National Club. Dedicated to the komondor, these members strive to breed only healthy animals who conform to the National Kennel Club standard for the breed.

THE KOMONDOR AND PREDATOR CONTROL
Prepared by the Predator Control Committee of the Komondor Club of America

PREDATOR CONTROL

In Hungary, the Komondor is hardly ever seen in cities. Considered to be the chief of the herdsman's dogs, the Komondor is used to protect the herdsman and his animals.

Recently, there has been considerable interest in the use of the Komondor as a livestock guardian among cattle, sheep and goat ranchers in the United States. Federally-funded projects have been established to study the use of livestock guard dogs for predator control and have found the dogs to be successful under certain circumstances. With increasing interest in re-establishing the wolf in the Western United States, more livestock ranchers will no doubt be looking to the Komondor and other guardian dogs to protect their assets.

Komondors are well suited for the task of predator control (both two and four legged kind). The white coat allows the dog to mingle unnoticed among the sheep while allowing the shepherd to see him at night. Also the coat acts as a protective barrier from the harsh weather and jaws of an attacking animal. The cords both insulate and cool. They are open to the skin so that they allow air to pass through, yet the density and length of the cords protect he animal underneath.

In the U.S., Komondors have been effectively used to fend off coyotes and bobcats. Even in livestock guarding situations, however, Komondors must be trained to know the owners rules. Many a Komondor who works well with the sheep cannot be taken to the vet when the need arises. All dogs must be trained to be handled by the owner and strangers when necessary.

The Komondor Club of America has a committee dedicated to the education and assistance of the rancher. For more information about the Predator Control Committee, contact the Secretary.

AS A LIVESTOCK GUARDIAN

Predator control is the Komondor's original task. However, few dogs work well for owners who are not "good with dogs", and the Komondor is not likely to be at his best unless he is trained specifically for his task. No matter how much training, if any, he gets before you get him, in the end how well he performs for you in your situation will depend on how well you have taught him what you require of him.

An adult Komondor with no particular training will guard what he thinks of as his. With maturity comes the desire to protect the farm or ranch from strangers and predators. The animals, children, adults, buildings and land are considered the Komondor's territory. It may be difficult to have the dog follow the flock onto pasture because he has left humans and livestock back at the farmstead.

A Komondor does not hunt out predators, or anything else, and he also is not a herder. So one usually encounters less trouble with his chasing chickens, etc... than with many other breeds. But any dog around small stock must be watched carefully. In the beginning, correct first encounters are crucial if bad habits are to be avoided. The owner showing the dog that he cares for the stock and protects it is often enough to convince a Komondor. Praise for gentle, friendly behavior is as important as reprimand in case of rough play or chasing. The dogs seem to form special attachments to stock they have overseen from birth. The babies that are born after you get the Komondor are more precious to him than the ones that were there before he came. Owners often report that their dog "fell In love" with the new lambs or kids. He will want to be near them, etc., and this should be encouraged, though of course you have to oversee it.

The guarding nature of the dogs means usually that few predators are killed. The dogs stay with the flocks and drive predators away. If pressed, the Komondor fights, and he is a formidable fighter. Under ordinary circumstances he will bark and display aggression to announce his presence and forestall forays by predators. Everyone reports that the dogs are quiet by day and bark at night. They also mark their territory with their scent and by scratching the earth. This can mean that often your losses are cut and your neighbors losses increase. In view of this, we think it is wise both to Introduce the dog to your neighbors, and also to be sure your dog learns as quickly as possible both his property boundaries and that he must not leave his own property. This is the thing that most ranchers report takes the most time and determination.

The Komondor needs to be shown his boundaries. It may be easier for owner and dog if boundaries are marked by a fence. It helps to walk a puppy around the borders and verbally reprimand him if he leaves your property. The owner and Komondor must agree upon what is to be guarded. The Komondor will then decide on how to guard it but you will have to teach your first Komondor who the enemy is. Usually an older dog will teach a younger one. If the dog sees you running after something chasing it off, or if he feels you hating something, he will join you. Sometimes the dogs, even very young ones, simply react to evil intent: a burglar, two footed or four, will usually rouse the ire of even the most inexperienced dog. Komondors rarely like people who don't like them! This is something to remember when "strange" workmen or delivery men arrive. You really need a place where you can confine the dog If someone he does not like must work on your property. He may appear lazy and sleepy, but he can easily respond if there is trouble. The breed is amazingly fast and agile and does not need a constant patrol to be effective.

The breed responds well to praise. The owner's voice and displeasure are usually enough to make the dog understand the rules. Some physical correction may be necessary for proper training, but Komondors have been known to bite when owners became heavy-handed so great care in understanding how to best train a Komondor is advised. Seek advice from your breeder and/or your National Club as they are a wealth of experience and dedicated to the best interests of the breed.

Owners that are most successful have the following attributes; they like dogs and have patience with them, they know what the Komondor's job is, and they are willing to let the Komondor decide how to do it. They realize that a 10-week-old puppy is not an effective guardian and their predator losses will not stop immediately.

Not all owners have success with livestock guard dogs. Some will not have success no matter how skilled or willing the dog. Others can take a difficult dog with little initial promise and show great results. Owners must be willing to spend time with a livestock guard dog and ask experienced people questions when they have problems. The dogs are a very effective solution to some predation problems. But they require time, patience, and an understanding of their abilities. At maturity, unless the Komondor has too much territory to cover, predator losses will be substantially reduced if not eliminated.

BREED DESCRIPTION

Despite its size, the Komondor is astonishingly fast, agile and light on its feet. The quick movement, large size, unique coat and majestic appearance of the Komondor can be awe inspiring.

The Komondor is characterized by imposing strength, dignity, courageous demeanor, and pleasing conformation. He is a large, muscular dog with plenty of bone and substance, covered with an unusual, heavy coat of white cords. The working Komondor lives during the greater part of the year in the open, and his coat serves to help him blend in with his flock and to protect him from extremes of weather and beasts of prey.

Puppies are white and fluffy and tend to form cords at about 3 to 4 months of age. They are very strong and agile for their size. A hardy, healthy dog, they can tolerate changing temperatures. Keeping the coat of a Komondor is a challenge and should not be taken lightly. Cords continue to grow and must be maintained by dividing new hair growth every two to three months from the skin out to the existing cords. If not trimmed regularly, the coat will reach the ground by the time they are 6 years old. Another consideration for the Komondor is that coat is always picking up debris from outside like dirt, leaves, twigs, small living creatures. This needs to be removed.

AKC BREED STANDARD

Size, Proportion, Substance
Dogs 27½ inches and up at the withers; bitches 25½ inches and up at the withers. Dogs are approximately 100 pounds and up, bitches, approximately 80 pounds and up at maturity, with plenty of bone and substance. While large size is important, type, character, symmetry, movement and ruggedness are of the greatest importance and are on no account to be sacrificed for size alone. The body is slightly longer than the height at the withers. Height below the minimum is a fault.

Head
The head is large. The length of the head from occiput to tip of nose is approximately 2/5 the height of the dog at the withers. The skin around the eyes and on the muzzle is dark.

Eyes: Medium-sized and almond-shaped, not too deeply set. The iris of the eye is dark brown. Edges of the eyelids are gray or black. Light eyes are a fault. Blue eyes are a disqualification.

Ears: In shape the ear is an elongated triangle with a slightly rounded tip. Medium-set and hanging and long enough to reach to the inner corner of the eye on the opposite side of the head. Erect ears or ears that move toward an erect position are a fault. Skull: The skull is broad with well-developed arches over the eyes. The occiput is fairly well-developed and the stop is moderate.

Muzzle: The muzzle is wide, coarse, and truncated. Measured from inner corner of the eye to tip of nose the muzzle is 2/5 of the total length of the head. The top of the muzzle is straight and is parallel to the top of the skull. Underjaw is well-developed and broad. Lips are tight and are black in color. Ideally gums and palate are dark or black. Nose: Nose is wide and the front of the nose forms a right angle with the top of the muzzle. The nostrils are wide. The nose is black. A dark gray or dark brown nose is not desirable but is acceptable. A flesh-colored nose is a disqualification. Bite: Bite is scissors; a level bite is acceptable. A distinctly overshot or undershot bite is a fault. Any missing teeth is a serious fault. Three or more missing teeth is a disqualification.

Neck
Muscular, of medium length, moderately arched, with no dewlap. The head erect.

Topline
The back is level and strong.

Body
Characterized by a powerful, deep chest, which is muscular and proportionately wide. The breast is broad and well-muscled. The belly is somewhat drawn up at the rear. The rump is wide, muscular, and slopes slightly towards the root of the tail. Softness or lack of good muscle tone is a fault.

Tail
A continuation of the rump line, hanging, and long enough to reach the hocks. Slightly curved upwards and/or to one side at its end. Even when the dog is moving or excited, the greater part of the tail is raised no higher than the level of the back. A short or curly tail is a fault.

Forequarters
Shoulders are well laid back. Forelegs straight, well-boned, and muscular. Viewed from any side, the legs are like vertical columns. The upper arms are carried close to the body, without loose elbows.

Feet
Strong, rather large, and with close, well-arched toes. Pads are hard, elastic, and black or gray. Ideally, nails are black or gray, although light nails are acceptable.

Hindquarters
The steely, strong bone structure is covered with highly-developed muscles. The legs are straight as viewed from the rear. Stifles are well-bent. Rear dewclaws must be removed.

Coat
Characteristic of the breed is the dense, protective coat. The puppy coat is relatively soft, but it shows a tendency to fall into cord-like curls. The young adult coat, or intermediate coat, consists of very short cords next to the skin which may be obscured by the sometimes lumpy looking fluff on the outer ends of the cords. The mature coat consists of a dense, soft, woolly undercoat much like the puppy coat, and a coarser outer coat that is wavy or curly. The coarser hairs of the outer coat trap the softer undercoat, forming permanent, strong cords that are felt-like to the touch. A grown dog is entirely covered with a heavy coat of these tassel-like cords, which form naturally. It must be remembered that the length of the Komondor's coat is a function of age, and a younger dog must never be penalized for having a shorter coat. Straight or silky coat is a fault. Failure of the coat to cord by two years of age is a disqualification. Short, smooth coat on both head and legs is a disqualification.

Color
Color of the coat is white, but not always the pure white of a brushed coat. A small amount of cream or buff shading is sometimes seen in puppies, but fades with maturity. In the ideal specimen the skin is gray. Pink skin is not desirable but is acceptable. Color other than white, with the exception of small amounts of cream or buff in puppies, is a disqualification.

Gait
Light, leisurely and balanced. The Komondor takes long strides, is very agile and light on his feet. The head is carried slightly forward when the dog trots.

The foregoing is a description of the ideal Komondor. Any deviation should be penalized in direct proportion to the extent of that deviation. Extreme deviation in any part should be penalized to the extent that the dog is effectively eliminated from competition.

Disqualifications
Blue eyes.
Flesh-colored nose.
Three or more missing teeth.
Failure of the coat to cord by two years of age.
Short, smooth coat on both head and legs.
Color other than white, with the exception of small amounts of cream or buff in puppies.

TEMPERAMENT

A fearless dog, the Komondor's main task is to guard flocks of sheep or other livestock against predators such as wolves, coyotes, feral dogs, or human predators. He is not a herder. Be it livestock, children, or a cat, a Komondor is happiest when taking responsibility for another's well-being. Originally developed in Hungary to guard large herds of animals on the open plains, the intelligent Komondor was charged with protecting the herd by himself, with no assistance and no commands from his master. The mature, experienced dog tends to stay close to his charges, whether a flock or family; he is unlikely to be drawn away from them in chase, and typically doesn't wander far. If challenged, the Komondor becomes a fearless protector knocking down an intruder or breaking windows to protect its "flock".

Though very sensitive to the desires of his master, heavy-handed training will produce a stubborn, unhappy Komondor.

While reserved with strangers, once a new member has been introduced into the family or flock, the Komondor will never forget them. A Komondor will routinely greet someone it has not seen for years as though it had just seen them yesterday. Once you are a "member of the flock," you are always a "member of the flock." The Komondor is demonstrative with those he loves, selflessly devoted to his family and his charges, and will defend them against any attack. Should it decide its flock, territory, family, or master needs protection, it will not hesitate to spring into action, defending it charges fearlessly and with suddenness which take the intruder by surprise. The combination of this devotion to all things dear to him and the desire to take responsibility for them produces an excellent and very faithful.

As puppies, the breed is playful, precocious, and a challenge for novice owners. Even puppies raised with livestock cannot be trusted implicitly if housed with young sheep, goats, etc. The owner must supervise introduction of a puppy to livestock as they tend at times to play and chase livestock and can hurt a fragile goat just trying to play with it -- after all, a 4 months old Komondor puppy can weigh over 40 pounds! The little puppy requires a great deal of supervision In his initial encounters with animals. A grown cow or horse can hurt or even kill a little puppy.

A Komondor puppy is not a grown dog. In familiar surroundings a puppy should be outgoing and friendly. Even a very young puppy may be wary when faced with a stranger, unless you supervise introductions and reassure him that a stranger you want him to accept is a friend. It is not unusual for puppies only a week or weeks old to bark at a stranger's footfall.

From around 18 months until around 2 years, many go through a very trying period of testing -- they seem to be adolescent then and In need of proving themselves. They want very much to be the boss, and the human master must be the real boss.

As the Komondor matures, it becomes more wary and an effective guard. This maturation may begin at age 6 months, but normally takes place at around 18-24 months.Many Komondors are "late bloomers", not fully mature until nearly three years of age.

As a general rule, puppies raised with livestock begin to guard earlier than Komondors raised in the house. They also tend to be more aggressive towards strangers than house dogs.

It is very important to socialize the puppies by introducing them to many people and experiences. Obedience training is a good idea for all puppies for all LGD breeds, not just the Komondor. If raised on a farm or ranch, the puppies should go into town periodically to meet strangers and friends. Puppies with little human contact can be overly aggressive towards people. As adults, these are the dogs that may bite.

Because of the Komondor's size, power, and speed, its owner must have it under control. Obedience training is a must, preferably starting at an early age (4 - 8 months). Komondors are usually intelligent and take well to training if started early. Komondors become obstinate when bored, so it is imperative that training sessions be upbeat and happy. Praise is a must, as are consistent and humane corrections. Once a Komondor gets away with unfriendly or hostile behavior, it will always think such behavior is appropriate. Therefore,consistent corrections even with a young puppy are necessary to ensure a well-adjusted adult.

Most times, an older Komondor can be happily retired from outside into the house with no special problems.

HEALTH

Devotees of the breed wish to preserve the breed as it has been for centuries, and to do this they want to see only the best specimens bred. A dog can be a marvelous working dog, but if he has physical faults like poor hips, poor pigment, poor teeth, a bad coat, etc... they would prefer not to have him used for breeding. Any dog or bitch of unsuitable temperament should not be bred, even if it is a handsome physical specimen. Responsible and caring breeders disapprove of breeding unregistered dogs; the Hungarians worked very hard to get the dogs registered in order to oreserve the breed.
Many things cannot be predicted in any one little puppy, and no one can responsibly predict that two small puppies will grow up to be a suitable pair to breed. If you start with one Komondor and it turns out to be a great mature dog, you should then, and only then, seek out the best possible mate for that particular animal.

The Komondor is not subject to any particular health problems. Perhaps because the breed has descended from centuries of hardy working stock, Komondors have few genetically linked problems. In particular, there is no evidence of the retinal eye problems found in other breeds, nor is there dwarfism or hereditary blood disorders. Individual animals may need to be treated by a veterinarian for summer hot-spots or other ailments common to the breed.

The expected life span of the Komondor is 8 - 12 years.

The litter size may be anywhere from 3 to 10 puppies.

It's essential to introduce the puppy to your veterinarian early. In case of emergency, the dog and owner will have an easier time if the Komondor thinks of the veterinarian as a friend. As puppies and adolescents, it is common to have barbed wire cuts as the dogs go over fences. Many times these are severe enough to be stitched.

One health concern of all owners of large dogs is the onset of hip dysplasia. This will become a debilitating problem for the dog and may effect its guarding abilities. The best prevention is to purchase a puppy from a reputable breeder who x-rays his breeding stock and certifies them with the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) as being clear of the problem. Actual certification that a dog is free of hip dysplasia cannot take place until the dog is over the age of two years. A responsible and ethical breeder will give a guarantee against the problem in their puppies. No one can tell just by looking whether adults have hip dysplasia. All breeders in the United States who are affiliated with the Komondor Club of America should be in compliance with the Code of Ethics which requires that their breeding stock be x-rayed and certified free of hip dysplasia by the OFA. However, even two parents certified clear of hip dysplasia can produce dysplastic offspring. Often it will be years before this condition is noticed.

One eye disorder which is found in the breed is entropian, which is indicated by the curling inwards of either the upper or lower eyelid. This lid deformity causes the lashes to rub against the cornea causing lacerations and infections of the eye. It can be corrected by surgery, but after such surgery, the dog cannot be shown and any dog with this problem should not be bred since it is genetic in nature.

Another genetic eye problem that has recently been documented in the breed is juvenile cataracts. The Canine Eye Registration Foundation, CERF, located at Purdue University, evaluates eye exams and assigns a CERF number if the dog's eyes are free of genetic problems.

Before buying a puppy, find out if the puppy's parents have been properly evaluated for hip and eye problems, and what (if any) guarantee the breeder is willing to provide you for your dog.

There is some incidence of "bloat", (gastric diliation-torsion syndrome), a life threatening condition, but the incidence of bloat is no greater than with any other large breeds. This condition is marked by acute distress, and emergency measures should be taken immediately. The causes of bloat are still largely unknown, but when it occurs, the stomach becomes enlarged and filled with gas, eventually rotating inside the chest cavity and killing the dog if not corrected in time. If not treated immediately complications, both neurological and circulatory, can result in death. Please discuss this disease with your vet and your breeder. Learn the symptoms and what to do if it occurs. Surgical correction of the problem is available and has been successful in many cases.

External parasites can be a problem due to the heavy coat. As with any long-haired dog, a skin check should be part of your regular grooming routine. The dog will scratch out coat if left untreated. This can leave him vulnerable to temperature extremes in harsh winter weather.Should you find fleas or ticks, aggressive measures are in order. Shampoos and powders work well, but be sure to make sure you reach all parts of dog's skin. With the big coat, it is easy to miss a spot where the fleas can hide. Owners should check anti-flea and tick preparations carefully as Komondors are extremely sensitive to some of these products. Also be sure to spot-test the coat before dipping as some flea dips have been known to discolor the white coat. Flea collars too can discolor the hair beneath them, so look for a white or transparent one.

Worms are a problem for working dogs. Most veterinarians suggest a regular worming schedule. As with all dogs, they need to be tested and protected against heartworm. There are preventive products that need only be given once a month.

Ear care should be routine also so that no infection occurs. Since Komondors have ears which hang down preventing air circulation, it is especially necessary to keep them clean of the dirt they collect and hair-free. Some ear canals are hairier than others, but commercial powders, cleansing fluids, and plucking can greatly reduce the infections. Regular cleaning of the ears will insure that livestock guards can hear their coyotes or canine adversaries.

Thick hair grows between the pads of the feet which also requires maintenance. This hair can pick up burrs, or, when wet, becomes a source of irritation and infection. For the health and comfort of the dog, this hair should be cut out with an electric clipper or scissors to keep mats from forming between the foot pads.

As in all breeds one should be careful that Komondors have the proper vaccines against rabies, distemper, parvo, etc. Dogs should also be checked periodically for worms and other internal parasites. Like all stock guard dogs Komondors are usually extremely sensitive to anesthetics. These drugs should always be administered to effect... never by weight.

COAT

Most people are initially attracted to the Komondor because of his corded coat. Unlike any other guard dog, the Komondor develops a matted coat that the owner helps form into cords. As the dog matures, the coat will eventually reach to the ground. This tough and dense coat protects the Komondor from its enemies and shields it from extremes of weather. When clean and groomed the coat can be quite beautiful, however sometimes the dogs are seen in public dirty, matted and bad smelling. When presented in such condition, the breed's reputation suffers.

Cords begin forming between the ages of eight months and twelve months, and continue throughout the life of the dog. As new coat grows, the cords will clump together at the base. You will need to spend time every week working on the cords to keep them neat.

Caring for the coat takes organization and effort, but it is not an impossible task. Some coats require much work when the dog is an adolescent, and other dogs are nearly self-cording. Help from someone experienced with the breed is essential when facing this task.

The cords form when the woolly undercoat is trapped by the harsher curlier outer-coat. As the coat mats together, the curl of the outer-coat helps determine the natural separation points.Separate the clumps following the pattern of the curls, having the base of the cords approximately the diameter of your thumb. With time and the process of wetting and drying, the clumps will tighten up forming cords. At first these cords will be short, but as the dog ages the coat grows longer, the cords will acquire the length and graceful swing of the impressive adult coat.

As you might imagine, it is easy for dirt to get into the cords. If that dirt becomes trapped as the cord tightens, the coat will become discolored and dull looking. The best way to keep a Komondor clean is never to allow it to get dirty. If the dog does get into a mud puddle, than a quick rinse with a garden hose will help get the dirt out. Trimming the hair around the mouth can help keep it dry and can lessen the odor, but there should be cords left on the muzzle. Hair which never dries can mildew, so cutting some of it off may lessen the problem.

However, no working Komondor can be kept from getting dirty, and most mature dogs with full coats cannot be kept immaculate save by extreme measures.

Even with the most extreme measures, the coat of a mature Komondor is not as white as that of other white dogs which shed out their entire coat once or twice a year. The true pure white color can be seen at the base of the Komondor's cords.

A dryer or floor fan is very helpful in caring for the corded coat. Because damp hair picks up dirt easier than dry hair, keeping the coat dry helps keep it clean. Komondors like moving air more than cold air, and a Komondor will often be seen lying on its back upside-down in front of a fan when one is available.

Adult Komondors may occasionally lose an entire cord, but they do not shed in the usual sense of the word. Like poodles, which also can be corded, Komondors are a good breed for those who have allergies to dog hair and dander.

If you are interested in an outside dog to stay with the livestock, coat care should consist of enough separating to keep the dog comfortable and routine examinations for large weeds, twigs, and burrs. Ears should also be cleaned occasionally and checked for infection and foreign objects.

DIET FOR THE ADULT KOMONDOR

Diet need not be a complicated matter. As with all livestock guarding dogs, Komondors have been bred for many centuries to make efficient use of their food. Many adult Komondors eat no more that three cups of food per day and are in excellent health and weight. Generally, portions indicated on the dog food bag are far too generous. Be careful not to over-feed or over-supplement your Komondor. Your breeder can provide more information relative to the care and feeding of your dog.

WHERE CAN I BUY A KOMONDOR IF I WANT ONE?

The Komondor Club of America can furnish you with a list of breeders, including information as to who has puppies or older dogs available. Breeders listed with the KCA have agreed to abide by the Club's Code of Ethics which specifies responsible practices to be followed by breeders to ensure the health of the puppies and the satisfaction of purchasers.

We cannot repeat often enough: 'buy from a reputable breeder'. The Komondor is not without its fair share of puppy mill breeders and backyard breeders. You may even find a Komondor in your local pet store. Do not buy these dogs! These breeders are involved in breeding dogs to make a profit, not in breeding quality animals to improve the breed. You may be surprised to find that a show quality puppy from champion parents bought from a Club member will cost less than a pet store dog. So don't act on impulse and but the first
Komondor you see.

Because the Komondor is a rare breed, your search may mean the only puppies available are on the opposite side of the country. Then again, you may get lucky and locate a kennel near you. The location of the breeder should not necessarily play a part in you decision over where to get a puppy. Most Komondors are, quite successfully, shipped by air to their new homes . If you cannot visit the kennel personally, ask for photos or videos of the sireand dam and puppies. You might ask for a pedigree and copies of the sire's and dam's OFA certificates. If the breeder sells his dogs with a contract, ask
to see it in advance of getting your puppy. It is not unheard of to ask for references from the breeder, but don't be surprised if the breeder asks for your references, too. Now is the time to ask questions and get everything out in the open. If you have any doubts about the breeder or the quality of his or her dogs, back out now. It is better to wait until another litter is available from someone you trust than to take the only dog available from someone you have questions about.

KOMONDOR CLUB OF AMERCIA CONTACT INFORMATION:

For more information about the breed contact the Corresponding Secretary, Linda Patrick at cords4me@provide.net or the Regional Director for your area listed below:

Region I (ME, NH, VT, MA, RI, CT, NY, PA, MI, WI, All Canadian Provinces East of Manitoba)
Pam Mroz
212 Sanilac St#2
Dewpew, NY 14043
(716) 316-2428
region1koms@hotmail.com

Region II (NJ, MD, DE, VA, WV, NC, SC, DC, and non-Canadian foreign members)
Marlene Horvath
12 Joseph Court
New Egypt, NJ 08533
(609) 758-9460
(609) 758-6550
dreamerjhmh@yahoo.com

Region III (AL, GA, FL, KY, TN, OH, IN, MS, IL, IA, MO)
Mary Ann Blanks
3904 Alabama Road
Apison, TN 37302
(423) 236-5092

Region IV (ID, MT, WY, UT, CO, ND, SD, MN, NE, KS, OK, TX, NM, IA, MO, AR, LA, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba)
Adrienne Freyer
Rapid City, SD 57702
(605) 348-2548
kburgkom@aol.com

Region V (AZ, NV, WA, OR, CA, AK, HI, and British Columbia)
Ann Quigley
Chehalis, WA 98532
(360) 245-3464
Lajoscords@aol.com

Bibliography:
The Komondor Club of America
Joy C. Levy, Editor; M.A.S.K.C., Inc. Komondor News
Middle Atlantic States Komondor Club
Mid Ohio Komondor Club
The International Encyclopedia of Dogs
Komondor Club of Great Britain