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Alpacas
and llamas have simple yet special dietary needs. They require
less food per day than other livestock (adults average 2 ½
/-3 1/2 lbs. day of forage) and lower quality forage than others.
Alfalfa hay, for example often has a protein level of 25% or
more which can cause bloating in lamas (lamas refers to alpacas
and llamas). Good second cut, fine stemmed mixes of orchard
grass and with a small amount of clover or alfalfa (no more
than 35%) are healthy and palatable to the lama. Depending upon
the source, second cuttings may be too high in protein and calories
so first may be preferable. Hay should always be clean smelling
(not sour) with no signs of mold and stored in a dry dark place
away from moisture sources. Hay should always be tested for
overall nutrition from the center of the bale. Unfortunately,
there are both honest and dishonest hay dealers. You’ll
save the most money if you purchase hay no later than mid summer;
prices can double by fall. Depending upon your region and pasture
growing season, you may want to contract for up to 6 months
of hay at a time. If space is limited, most dealers will schedule
multiple deliveries for a nominal additional fee. If you’re
just starting out and there are other alpaca or llama breeders
in your immediate area, you can pool your orders to save on
the per bale cost.
Most
lama breeders supplement pasture and hay with grain and minerals.Pellets
are popular and several large manufactures such as Pro Forma
as well as regional suppliers now offer  lama
designed formulations such as Lama Tex. Pellets, however, can
cause choking, indigestion and in some cases allergic reactions
due to the binder used. Incidents of choking can be reduced
and even eliminated by making sure pellets are really well spread
around so that the lama is forced to take only small amounts
at a time.Ideally, simple grains mixed specifically for lamas
and for their age, condition and jobs in life are best. Every
lama does not need to be fed grain every day but this means
more separation of your herd in terms of space. The following
are some basic recommendations which should be adjusted for
your region and environmental conditions (winter vs. summer,
heat stress etc.):
Geldings
and studs should receive pasture/hay and a cracked corn and/or
crimped oats supplement depending upon body. If geldings begin
to show fat accumulation, which is common, reduce or eliminate
grain. Studs actively breeding (particularly during high heat/humidity
conditions which is not recommended) may require additional
grain rations.
Nursing and pregnant females need free choice pasture/hay and
supplemental grain. A mixture of cracked corn, crimped oats
and soybean meal is a good higher protein mix for their greater
nutritional needs. COB (corn, oats and barley) is popular as
is believed to promote a good supply of milk. Second cutting
hay is worth the additional expense for this group.
Weanlings are actively growing and need a protein/calorie level
between that of males and pregnant/lactating females.
The
amount of grain fed to each group should be based upon regular
body condition checks (ask your vet or breeder you purchase
from how to do this). Vary the protein/calorie level and amount
fed according to condition score.
Molasses-
often the binder used in pellets and grain mixes is not necessary
for proper lama nutrition although they love its taste. It just
adds calories.
Lamas all need some type of mineral supplement. The exact type
is based upon what is in your pasture and hay and is determined
by your region. Consult with your vet and other local lama breeders.
It may be given free choice (in feed bins always available)
or you may have to mix it with grain supplements as many lamas
don’t like the taste. We have found loose salts to be preferred
over block salts.
Lamas are not horses, sheep or cattle so premixes for them are
not appropriate. Most mixes for other livestock contain too
much or too little of required minerals not to mention improper
calorie/protein levels. Some goat mixes come close- you’ll
learn to read labels carefully comparing contents with necessary
lama nutritional requirements.
Clean,
cool fresh water (lamas don’t like warm water and often
won’t drink it) should always be available. It may need
to be heated in winter to prevent freezing (especially if you
use small buckets rather than troughs- submersible heaters are
available for both). Remember consumption during high heat/humidity
periods will increase; automatic waterers are expensive but
should be considered if possible as another level of insurance.
If one of your alpacas becomes ill or injured and requires the
use of antibiotics as treatment, you will need to supplement
their feed with a probiotic. Ruminants rely upon naturally occurring
bacteria in their stomachs to aid in proper digestion; antibiotics
kill these desirable bacteria requiring supplementation. Homeopathic
treatments like plain cultured yogurt are ok but don’t
contain the wide range of live cultures alpacas require. Probiotic
supplements are available at most feed supply stores, vet clinics
as well as the mail order suppliers.
When introducing animals to a new environment, they are under
stress. To minimize this, it is best to always get several days
worth of hay and grain/mineral mix (and water too if possible)
to feed them after transport. You can slowly add in your own
mix to make an easier transition. Loose, runny stools are not
uncommon after transport but should not persist for more than
several days. If you already have animals, new additions should
be quarantined for at least a week to watch for signs of disease
or other communicable conditions. Refer to your veterinarian
for area specific problems.
For
an industry dependent upon sound reproduction, we know little
about proper nutrition especially for pregnant females. Until
they were first imported into North America and Australia in
the mid-80’s for commercial breeding purposes, very little
research had been done on their nutritional requirements. What
little had been done in Peru was lost in the 70’s when
Shining Path terrorists destroyed the Alpaca Research Station
and its records. Thus, the lama breeder is faced with trying
to cull information from many sources (books, vets, other breeders,
and the internet) and their own observations of their herd to
develop a comprehensive nutrition program. The most important
factors are always basic lama nutritional guidelines augmented
by individual body condition scoring and behavioral observation.
A properly fed lama is a happy lama. Overweight lamas do not
lose weight easily while underweight animals often show loss
of appetite requiring separation and special dietary adjustments
and feeding techniques.
This
is by no means a comprehensive discussion of the nutritional
requirements of camelids: simply a primer to get you started.
Again, veterinarians, industry acknowledged experts, other breeders
are among the many sources that should be consulted.
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