There
is no part of the world other than Antarctica that does not
have natural predators. Although adult lamas (llamas and alpacas
are referred to as “lamas”…with 2 “L’s”)
may not be threatened by some (like coyote), cria are always
at risk. Every region has its own complement of predators
(almost all areas have to deal with one of the worst- feral
or loose dogs as they chase anything) and good predator control
will vary for each farm
We
like to view predator control with a “layered approach”.
The more predators and types of predators, your aversion to
risk and your pocket book all determine how many layers to use.
Your first step is to contact your local Agricultural Extension
agent, Fish and Game office and nearby livestock breeders to
find out what you are protecting against. All good predator
control begins with quality fencing properly designed and installed.
More details can be found in the “Barns
& Fencing” page, but basically no-climb field fencing
or electrified fencing are the best. Wood fencing and barbed
wire fencing are designed more to keep animals in than predators
out and are not suitable for camelids. Fence height will vary
depending upon your predator load but 4-5’ is usually sufficient.
Let’s
talk a little about predators themselves. First, loose and feral
dogs are pack animals (like wolves) so where there’s one,
there are usually more. Most have highly developed chase instincts
so anything that moves is prey or something with which to play.
Even if the intent is not to kill, chasing causes extreme stress
in lamas which can cause miscarriage in pregnant females. Dogs
are generally not as intelligent as coyote or wolves and consequently
may run right though electrified fencing
which I’ve personally witnessed. This is why ‘no climb’
fencing is superior to high tensile fencing. Dogs, like coyote
will dig under fencing if hungry or interested enough. Measures
like burying mesh underground can be used but are expensive
and of minimal help- they’ll just dig deeper!
Coyote
are found virtually everywhere in North America. They are quiet,
highly intelligent and usually are solitary hunters. Weighing
35-40 lbs., they are not a threat to adult lamas but a cria
is no match. Bear are herbivorous but if hungry enough will
eat whatever meat is available including adult lamas. Wolves
are found in only very isolated areas but are a formidable threat
if present. Like dogs, they will dig under fencing and hunt
in packs. Mountain lion are the single most dangerous threat.
Even more stealthy and quiet than coyote, they can clear a 10’
fence from a sitting position. If a tree is available that overhangs
a fence line, they will quietly sit on a branch until an unsuspecting
animal is underneath and then drop down for the kill. Other
animals like deer, elk and moose although not predators do pose
a parasitic vector threat, or, in the case of moose, they can
breach the fence line itself.
Now
that you’re sufficiently afraid of what’s out there,
what do you do? You already have good fencing but we’ve
seen the best fence has limitations. Some people have success
hanging noisemakers or radios on the fence or in trees near
likely intrusion points. These devices will usually scare off
coyote and some dogs but will not deter bear, wolves or mountain
lion. Geese and guinea fowl are known for their amazing hearing
and can be pastured free range (which have parasitic control
value as well) and can alert you to the presence of a threat.
It’s then you and / or your gun vs. the predator. Personally,
we would not want to try and take down a bear or mountain lion
unless we were a superb shot and knew what we were doing. The
prospect of a wounded dangerous animal is not attractive. Plus,
what if it’s the middle of the night and you don’t
wake up?
 Many
lama breeders employ llamas or donkeys as guard animals. Both
have great eyesight, good hearing and have little natural fear
of predators which is both a plus and a minus. We’ve heard
many stories of brave llamas or donkeys stomping coyote to death
(which we mostly attribute to “alpaca/llama/donkey urban
myths” and actually know one llama breeder who watched
this happen. Most honest and caring llama breeders don’t
recommend the use of guard llamas as guard animals unless used
in conjunction with Livestock Guard Dogs (LGDs). A llama or
donkey will rush a bear or mountain lion out of lack of experience
and is no match for either. Used solely on their own, we’ve
heard of far too many mutilations and deaths. Basically, llamas
and donkeys are sitting ducks if dog packs, wolf packs, bear
or mountain lion are on your predator list.
That
brings us to one of our favorite topics- livestock guardian
dogs. LGDs were, like herding dogs, among the first animals
domesticated by man when he changed from mobile hunting/gathering
tribes to settled agricultural communities. Sheep were the first
mammals domesticated after we settled down because they were
small, easy to catch and provided milk, meat and fiber. Wild
dogs and wolves had been coming around our campfires for a long
time and at some point people started noticing that some were
more apt to chase (which led to herding dogs who have the most
keenly developed chase instinct) while others were less so.
Somebody eventually got the idea to try mating the ones less
likely to chase and found some of their offspring had even a
less developed chase instinct. Selective breeding over many
generations eventually produced the 28 or so acknowledged livestock
guard dog breeds.
LGDs
have been used by herdsman for at least 6000 years. Throughout
most of the Middle East (where sheep and these dogs were first
domesticated) and later throughout Asia, Europe and beyond,
LGDs have been the primary guardians of flocks. They, like herding
dogs, are among, if not the most, intelligent dog breeds. In
many areas, sheep are taken up to mountain pastures in the spring
and left alone with their herd and guard companions. Herd dogs
keep the flock together while the LGDs maintain a watchful perimeter.
In the fall the flock is brought down for winter pasturing.
In areas like Europe where sheep were bred to be primarily white,
so are the LGD breeds (Great Pyrenees, Kuvasz etc.) so they
blend in with the flock and thus indistinguishable to predators.
In areas where sheep are multicolored, so are the LGDs (Anatolian,
Akbash, Tibetan Mastiffs etc.).
LGDs
bond with the herd and live with them 24 hours a day. The herd
members quickly learn that they are not a threat- but are always
obeyed. The LGDs become the “alphas” in the herd.
When a cria is born, after mom and the other females bond, the
alpha LGD (if there is more than one) bonds next. Most LGD breeders
who raise livestock recommend letting the dogs eat the placenta
to complete the bonding- after you inspect it for normalcy,
of course.
LGDs
are fearless and will protect their herd, you, your children/family,
other animals pastured with them and your pets if you go through
the proper introduction, to the death. There is a misconception
among North American sheep breeders that LGDs will kill young
animals particularly if not properly fed. We are unaware of
any instance of this occurring; they would sooner die. In some
areas where the only threats are an occasional stray dog or
coyote, a single LGD is enough. Multiple LGDs work as a team
with the “alpha” directing traffic. LGD’s primary
instinct is to protect their herd. Instead of immediately charging
aggressively towards the threat, they begin by barking in the
direction of the threat if it is outside the pasture. If it
is already inside, they usually will herd the animals inside
the barn or to a location they perceive as safe and then place
themselves between the threat and the herd. If the threat persists
approaching the herd, the LGD will begin making fake assaults
barking all the way, teeth bared and hair fluffed to make themselves
look as big as possible These fake assaults usually drive the
predator away. If the threat gets too close, they will attack.
A
coyote or single dog (even traditional guard dogs like Dobermans
etc.) is no match. LGDs have thick hair and fat layers around
their necks to help protect their most vulnerable area as well
as being tremendously powerful pound for pound. Bears naturally
fear dogs (they equate them with wolves) and usually avoid any
area where barking occurs. If you have mountain lion or wolves
as a serious threat, multiple dogs are necessary. Two or three
LGDs will attack from multiple directions driving them off.
A large wolf pack will rarely approach signs or the scent of
humans. Colorado State University, one of the key LGD research
institutions, has noted that unprotected spring lamb losses
due to predation in Colorado was near 50%; when LGDs are added
to the herd, the loss drops to under 3%.
LGDs
are most effective when used in conjunction with good fencing,
other alert animals like geese and guinea fowl. They often hear
the intruder first and alert the other guard animals like llamas
(which given their height and eyesight may see the predator
first and alert the dogs). This is a truly layered approach,
natural and the most effective means of predator control available.
And
then there's the dirty wee beastie.....the mouse!
Avoid
mousebait which can be lethal to not only alpacas but harmlful
to other animals if it finds it way to unsafe locations. The
best and most effective, natural control is a good mouser....the
cat!
Before
introducing a new cat or kitten to the herd it is smart to have
them tested for Feline Leukemia and Feline Aids Virus. In themselves
these diseases cannot be contracted by alpacas, however, should
a cat or kitten prove positive for either or both it is symptomatic
of a compromised immune system in your wee feline which could
translate into them possibly shedding the very dangerous toxoplasmosis
which can definitely be contracted by alpacas.
After
dining on the mouse for several weeks at a time, it is also
recommended to de-worm your cat at least every 3 mos. to eliminate
tapeworm and other parasites to not only keep your cat healthy
but to avoid being picked up by the alpacas.
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